top of page

Updated: Feb 13

A Tangy-Sweet Taste of German Tradition


Sauerbraten with Potato Dumplings and Red Cabbage
Sauerbraten with Potato Dumplings and Red Cabbage

If there’s one dish that embodies the soul of Germany’s Rhineland cuisine, it’s Rheinischer Sauerbraten. This classic German pot roast is a culinary masterpiece that harmoniously blends tangy, sweet, and savory flavors into a dish that has stood the test of time.


A Dish with Deep Roots

The origins of Sauerbraten trace back to medieval Germany, where marinating meat in vinegar and spices was a practical way to preserve it before refrigeration. Over the centuries, this technique evolved into a beloved recipe, with regional variations adding unique twists. Legend attributes the dish’s invention to Charlemagne (742–814 AD), who purportedly suggested preserving roasted meat in a vinegar-based marinade. However, this claim is more mythical than historical. In the Rhineland, the addition of raisins and gingersnaps sets their version apart, creating a delightful balance of tartness and sweetness.

Originally, Sauerbraten was often made with horse meat because its natural slight sweetness complements the sour marinade. However, modern versions almost exclusively use beef, reflecting changes in culinary preferences.


The Magic of Marinade
Sauerbraten Marinade
Sauerbraten Marinade

At the heart of Rheinischer Sauerbraten is its marinade. Beef is soaked for several days in a mixture of vinegar, red wine, onions, and aromatic spices like cloves, bay leaves, and juniper berries. This process not only tenderizes the meat but also infuses it with rich, tangy flavors.


Once marinated, the meat is slow-cooked until fork-tender, and the marinade is transformed into a luscious sauce. Gingersnaps and raisins are added to the sauce, giving it a velvety texture and a hint of sweetness that balances the dish’s bold acidity.


A Feast for the Senses

Traditionally, Rheinischer Sauerbraten is served with potato dumplings, red cabbage, or spaetzle, making it a comforting and hearty meal. The interplay of flavors—tart, sweet, and savory—reflects the Rhineland’s culinary identity, where contrasts create harmony.


A Dish Worth Celebrating

Whether exploring German cuisine for the first time or revisiting an old favorite, Rheinischer Sauerbraten is a must-try dish. Its rich history and bold flavors make it more than just a meal—it’s a taste of tradition and a reminder of the ingenuity of cooks from centuries past.


Next time you’re in the mood for something truly special, try Rheinischer Sauerbraten. It’s a dish that tells a story, one delicious bite at a time


Rheinischer Sauerbraten (Sour Roast)


Ingredients


For the marinade: 

  • 2 large Yellow Onions, chopped

  •  2 large Carrots, chopped

  •  1 large Leek, chopped

  • 1 cup chopped Celeriac (Celery Root), approx. 1/4 inch cubes

  •  1/2 cup Raisins (preferably golden raisins)

  •  1 bottle Dry Red Wine (note 2)

  •  2 cups Red Wine Vinegar

  •  2 sprigs Thyme

  •  2 sprigs Rosemary

  •  2-3 Bay Leaves

  •  1 tsp (approx. 12 pieces) Juniper Berries

  •  1/2 tsp (approx. 8 pieces) Whole Cloves

  • 1/2 tsp Allspice

  •  1 tsp whole Black Peppercorns, cracked

  •  1 tbsp teaspoons Kosher Salt

  •  1 tbsp Brown Sugar (white sugar is OK)


For the roast:

  • 3 pounds beef roast (chuck or rump) (note 1)

  •  2 tbsp Tallow or Avocado Oil (or any oil with a high smoke point)

  •  10 Gingersnap Cookies, crushed

  • Salt and Pepper to taste


The Process


  1. In a large pot, combine all of the marinade ingredients and boil for 10 minutes at medium-high heat. Let the marinade cool completely.

  2. Add the beef to the marinade and cover. The meat must be completely covered! (note 3)

  3. Marinate the beef for 5 - 10 days. As longer as better, but not longer than two weeks. Turn the meat once in a while.

  4. Remove roast from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Set the marinade aside.

  5. Add tallow or oil to a dutch oven and heat to high heat. Wait until the tallow or oil is very hot and add the meet to the dutch oven. Brown the meat on all sides approx. 2-3 minutes per side. (note 4)

  6. Add the marinade to the dutch oven and bring it to a boil. Cover the pot and reduce heat to simmer.

  7. Simmer for 2 1/2 - 3 hours, until meat is tender.

    Simmer the Sauerbraten
    Simmer the Sauerbraten
  8. Remove meat from the cooking liquids and set it aside on a cutting board. Cover it with foil and let it rest for 10 minutes.

  9. In the meantime, strain the marinade, discarding the solids and reserving the liquid. Make sure you press all the good liquids out of the strainer. Return the liquid to the dutch oven. 

  10. Add the crushed gingersnap cookies to the liquid in the dutch oven. Cook and stir over medium-low heat for 10 minutes until thickened into a nice gravy. Taste and add salt and pepper to taste.

  11. Slice the sauerbraten into thin slices and retrun them to the pot to heat up in the sauce.

  12. Serve the sauerbraten together with potato dumplings or spaetzle and red cabbage. (note 5)


Notes:

  1. A Rump Roast is higher and rounder than a Chuck Roast and looks nicer when sliced. However, it can be a little bit dryer. This is undoubtedly a matter of taste. Any roast meat would do it, as marinating it for several days will tenderize even the toughest cuts.

  2. Yes! We use the entire bottle! Any dry red wine will do. Do not use sweet wine, as it would bring the marinade out of balance. Never use any cheap wine. Use a wine you would like to drink as well.

  3. You can cover it in a pot. However, you must ensure that the entire meat piece is submerged in the liquid. This will ensure that it is preserved. My favorite method is using a vacuum sealer and a large plastic bag. That will always guarantee that the meat is not uncovered.

  4. Ensure all sides, even the thin ends, are browned well. This will start the Maillard reaction, which results in better flavors.

  5. You can certainly make potato dumplings from scratch. I will upload a recipe soon, although it is a lot of work. As a beginner, you can buy potato dumplings in a package. I find them almost as good as homemade.



Wine Pairing

Villa Wolf Pinot Noir 2019 or similar Pinot Noir


Why:

The German Pinot Noir, known in Germany as Spätburgunder, is a nice match for a Sauerbraten. You want a medium-bodied wine. Its fruitiness, with hints of cherry, strawberry, and pomegranate, complements the sauce's sour taste. Its spices, such as vanilla, allspice, and nutmeg, will add complexity.

However, Sauerbraten is forgiving. Its complex flavors allow for a range of wine choices, from our German Pino Noir over a medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon to a Beaujolais is acceptable. Just don’t go too dry.

One more interesting recommendation from Dr. Vinny at Wine Spectator is to skip red wines altogether and sip a German Spätlese or an off-dry Riesling from California together with the German roast.

There is flexibility. Try it out, and let me know what works for you.

 

Music Pairing

Rheinlieder Medley - A collection of songs of the Rheinland


Why:

The River Rhine area is known for a happy culture, celbrating the Carnival season especially in Köln (Cologne) and Düsseldorf and for its numerous wine festivals. Therefore music about this area tells stories of happiness, dancing and drinking wine. On many of the wine festivals, you can order a Sauerbraten as a perfect meal, celebrating the happiness.

 
 
 

Updated: Feb 13

Two types of fish in a wine-cream reduction offer a surprise in flavors.

ree

I grew up in a town in Germany, far away from the ocean. Meats and heavy meals were the "Bergisches Land" region's signature dishes. You could find the occasional fish dish on some restaurant menus. However, they were pretty standard.

Light and fine fish dish

Searching for a lighter and finer fish dish that could impress my family and guests, I came across a recipe in the 80s: salmon, topped by a mousse of white fish and vegetables, reduced in a wine-cream sauce. I immediately loved the light but distinct flavors.

Cooking salmon in a wine cream reduction not only elevates the dish with rich and complex flavors but also enhances the natural characteristics of the fish. Salmon is known for its buttery texture and mildly sweet taste, and when combined with a reduction of white wine and cream, these qualities are accentuated. The wine contributes acidity, which balances the cream's richness, resulting in a sauce that complements the salmon perfectly.

Experiment with wine

Additionally, this cooking method provides an opportunity to experiment with different types of wine, allowing home cooks to tailor the dish to their preferences. Whether opting for a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or a full-bodied Chardonnay (I prefer a dry wine here), the choice of wine can significantly influence the overall flavor profile. The gentle simmering process of the reduction melds these flavors together, creating a luxurious and comforting sauce.

Furthermore, preparing salmon in a wine cream reduction is relatively easy and quick, making it an excellent option for weeknight dinners or special occasions. It allows for a presentation that feels elegant without requiring hours of preparation.

I started changing the recipe, using different ingredients, spices, and techniques, and I ended up with the version I use today.

All the same mushrooms

I use Cremini mushrooms as a topping versus White Button mushrooms. Cremini or Baby Bella mushrooms offer a richer and more complex flavor that contrasts with the milder whither fish mousse. The fact is that a White Button mushroom is the same mushroom as the Cremini, or brown mushroom, as well as the Portabella. The difference is only their age. The brown Cremini and the large, brown Portabella are more mature versions of the very same mushroom.

MSG

I use MSG in the sauce to enhance the flavor and add umami taste. Before you scream now and point out the "China Restaurant Syndrome," please read this article about MSG and the evaluation by the FDA. If you still believe strongly in the old myth of MSG, you can certainly omit it.


My daughter Katharina loves this dish more than any other. Whenever she visits me and I ask her what to cook, she answers: Salmon with white fish! (She uses the shorter version of the recipe's name.) Therefore, using her name in the title, I honored her, reminding me of this recipe's greatest fan.


Salmon with Whitefish Mousse “Katharina”


Ingredients


ree

  • 4 Salmon filets, skinless (approx. 7 oz total)

  • 5 oz Tilapia

  • 1 Egg

  • 1 1/2 cups Heavy Cream (separated into 1/4 cup  and 1 1/4 cup)

  • 1 cup Dry White Wine (Sauvignon Blanc or preferrably Dry Riesling)

  • 4 slices of Tomato

  • 8 thin slices of Cucumber

  • 8 thin slices of Cremini (Baby Bella) Mushrooms

  • 2 Shallots

  • 1 Bay Leave

  • 1 tbsp Butter, room temperature

  • 1 large Egg

  • 1 dash Nutmeg

  • Salt and Pepper to taste

  • Optional: 1 tbsp Capers

  • Optional: 1/2 tsp MSG


Garnish:

  • Sliced lemon

  • Dill sprigs


The Process


ree

  1. Tap the salmon dry with a paper towel.

  2. Chop the tilapia into smaller pieces and add it with the 1/4 cup of heavy cream, salt, pepper, egg, and the dash of nutmeg to a food processor.

  3. Process the ingredients in the food processor until you have a consistent mousse without any remaining fish pieces. If you like capers, fold them into the mousse.

  4. Grease the bottom of a casserole or sauté pan with the butter.

  5. Chop the shallots into small pieces and add to the pan. Distribute the pieces evenly on the button of the casserole or sauté pan.

  6. Lay the salmon pieces on top of the shallots.

  7. Spoon the tilapia mousse on top of the salmon filets and even it out.

  8. Top each of the filets with one slice of tomato, two slices of cucumber and two slices of mushroom, overlapping the vegeatble slices.

  9. Add the white wine and bay leave and warm it over medium heat until bubbles form. Depending on your stove you may have to increase the heat.

  10. Once you see bubbles, lower the temperature and cover the casserole or sauté pan.

  11. Let it simmer for 20 minutes.

  12. Remove the fish filets carefully and place them on a plate. Cover with aluminum foil to keep it warm.

  13. Add 1 1/4 cups heavy cream to the casserole and reduce it over medium to medium-high heat. Stir consistently. It should reduce until you have a creamy sauce.

  14. Add salt and pepper to taste. You can add some MSG to give the sauce a more umami taste.

  15. Place the fish filets on a plate and spoon the sauce over it. Garnish with some dill sprigs and a slice of lemon on the side.

  16. You can serve the dish with jasmin rice or (my preferred) mashed potatoes and leaf spinach.

Guten Appetit!


Wine Pairing

Seaglass Sauvignon Blanc


Why:

A slightly dryer wine with aromas of lemon, lime, grapefruit, and fresh cut grass. A clean, crisp palate of gooseberry, tangerine and a touch of minerality delivers an acidity and a light tart finish which pairs well with the creaminess and sweetness of our sauce.

 

Music Pairing

Felix Mendelssohn - The Hebrides Overture


Why:

Inspired by his journey to Scotland, Felix Mendelssohn expressed the ocean travel and the coast's beauty in this music piece. The music comes in light waves, and brass instruments deliver higher pitches. This goes along with the crispiness we need for our dish and, of course, the connection to Scottish salmon.

 
 
 

Updated: Feb 13

The classic example of haute cuisine

ree

When I moved to the United States, I found French Onion Soup on the menus of many restaurants. I longed for some authentic European food, but the shock was intense when I saw the soup presented to me. A mass of onions with very little broth, topped with a thick piece of bread and at least one inch of cheese (I might have exaggerated a little bit). Indeed, it is not the same soup as it is served in fine restaurants in France.


French Onion Soup is a very fine and delicate broth with onions. If served as a Gratinée, the soup is topped with a thin layer of grated Gruyère or similar cheese.


Ancient Origins

The history of French Onion Soup can be traced back to ancient times. Onions were a staple in many European cultures due to their easy cultivation and long shelf life. The ancient Greeks and Romans used onions in their cooking, and it is believed that they were the first to develop a rudimentary form of onion soup.


Medieval France

The dish as we know it today began to take shape in medieval France. Onions were readily available and affordable, making them a common ingredient in French cuisine. The earliest versions of French Onion Soup consisted of thinly sliced onions slowly cooked in butter until caramelized. These sweet and flavorful onions were combined with broth and served over stale bread.


The Influence of King Louis XV

French Onion Soup gained significant popularity during the reign of King Louis XV in the 18th century. The King was known for his love of extravagant feasts and was believed to be particularly fond of onion soup. His endorsement of the dish contributed to its rising prominence in French culinary culture.


The Cheese Connection

Adding melted cheese to French Onion Soup is a more recent development. The idea originated in Paris's Les Halles market district in the 19th century. The market's proximity to cheese shops led to the experimentation of placing a slice of bread with melted cheese on top of the soup, creating the iconic Gratinée des Halles version of French Onion Soup that we enjoy today. The dish served as a hangover remedy for people who left the cabarets late at night to go and eat at the market, the only place still open that late. The soup was known as the "drunkard's soup". It supposedly veils the smell of alcohol on one's breath.


Popularity

French Onion Soup gained international recognition in the 20th century. It became a staple in French restaurants and bistro menus in France and abroad. Its reputation as a comforting and flavorsome dish grew, and it was embraced by food enthusiasts worldwide.

With its humble origins and delectable flavors, French Onion Soup has withstood the test of time and earned a special place in culinary history. From its ancient roots to modern-day adaptations, this beloved soup brings warmth and satisfaction to countless tables. Whether you savor it in a Parisian café or prepare it at home, French Onion Soup captures the essence of French cuisine, reminding us of the power of simple, time-honored recipes.


Minor changes

Although the soup has proven nearly perfect, I made minor changes to the original recipe as my idol Julia Child presented it in her book "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." Instead of beef broth, I use vegetable broth. It will give the soup a finer, lighter taste. Furthermore, It can be served as a vegan soup if the ingredient butter is replaced by olive oil.


French Onion Soup


Ingredients

(This will make 8 servings)

  • 1.5 lb thinly sliced Yellow Onions (note 1)

  • 3 tbsp Butter (use Olive Oil to make the soup vegan)

  • 1 tbsp Olive Oil

  • 1 tsp Salt

  • 1/2 tsp Sugar

  • 3 tbsp Flour

  • 8 cups Vegetable Broth

  • 1/2 cup Dry White Vermouth (note 2)

  • 3 tbsp Cognac (note 3)

  • Salt and Black Pepper to taste

For the garnishing (Croûtes)

  • 4 slices French White Bread (must be 3/4 to 1 inch thick)

  • 3 tbsp Olive Oil

  • 4 thick slices Swiss Cheese (note 4)

Optional

  • Chervil

ree


The Process


  1. Add butter, olive oil, and onions to a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven (at least 4 quarts). Mix well so all onions are well covered in the cooking fat. Cover the pot and cook slowly on medium-low for 15 minutes.

  2. Uncover the pot and increase heat to medium-high. Add salt and sugar. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onions are golden brown. (Sugar will help caramelize the onions.)

  3. In the meantime, add the vegetable broth to a separate pot and bring to a boil. It has to be boiling for step 5, so start heating it 10 minutes before.

  4. Add the flour to the pot with the onions and stir for 3 minutes.

  5. Take the pot with the onions off the heat and stir in the boiling broth.

  6. Add the vermouth, salt, and pepper to taste.

  7. Heat the soup over medium-low to medium heat until it simmers. Don’t boil it too rapidly! Cover the pot with the lid partially open for 30 minutes.

  8. While the soup is simmering, cut out white bread pieces with a cookie cutter. On a baking sheet, bake the bread at 325 degree F for approx. 20 minutes. After 10 minutes, brush some olive oil on both sides of the bread. Once the bread is golden brown, remove it from the oven.

  9. With the same cookie cutter, cut out the cheese.

  10. Lay the cheese pieces on the bread and broil it for a couple of minutes until the cheese starts melting.

  11. If the soup is not served immediately, remove the lid from the pot and keep it open. Once the soup is served, heat it over medium-high heat until it simmers again.

  12. Right before serving, add the Cognac to the soup.

  13. Serve the soup in a flat soup bowl, adding the baked bread pieces. Sprinkle some chervil on top, if desired.

Bon appétit!

Bread and cheese cut outs
Bread and cheese cut outs

Notes:

  1. Do not slice the onions too thin. I have experienced onions completely falling apart into little pieces while cooking.

  2. French Mâcon wine is very dry and used in original recipes. Finding this kind of wine in the United States is not easy. Julia Child recommends using dry white vermouth instead, which is a great substitute. When you buy dry white vermouth, ensure it does not have additional ingredients such as spices or herbs. I had excellent experiences with the brand Dolin, which is available in regular supermarkets or liquor stores.

  3. Yes, Cognac is a brandy. So, can you use another brandy instead? Well, you could. However, this would not be the original ingredient. It is comparable to using a sparkling wine in a cocktail when the recipe requests Champagne.

  4. You can use any cheese you like. My two preferred cheeses are either Emmentaler, which is lighter in taste, or Gruyère, the original used cheese.


Wine Pairing

White:

Les Piliers Viognier or similar Viognier


Why:

Viognier is an aromatic white wine with tropical fruit flavors which offers a contrast to the full flavored onion and cheese flavors. The floral character of Viognier complements the sweetness of caramelized onions.


Red:

Jadot Beaujolais Village or similar Beaujolais Village


Why:

French Onion Soup is full bodied. Therefore, you do not want to pair it with a full bodied wine. Beaujolais Village is fruity, low in alcohol and high in acidity which is a flavor enhancer and the brightness of the wine will not be overpowered by the boldness of the soup.


Music Pairing

Charles Aznavour - La Bohème


Why:

This famous French Chanson, sung by the great Charles Aznavour, describes an artist recalling his younger years in Montmartre, years when he was hungry but happy. This song is a farewell to the last days of a bohemian Montmartre. The French Onion Soup as we know it today was created during the bohemian time period of Paris. Being an inexpensive dish, it offered satisfaction for the hungry artists of the time. The recipe has not changed much since. It reminds us today of this time and always will.




 
 
 

© 2023 by Martin Schatz. Powered and secured by Wix

bottom of page