Salmon with Whitefish Mousse “Katharina”

Two types of fish in a wine-cream reduction offer a surprise in flavors.

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I grew up in a town in Germany, far away from the ocean. Meats and heavy meals were the "Bergisches Land" region's signature dishes. You could find the occasional fish dish on some restaurant menus. However, they were pretty standard.

Light and fine fish dish

Searching for a lighter and finer fish dish that could impress my family and guests, I came across a recipe in the 80s: salmon, topped by a mousse of white fish and vegetables, reduced in a wine-cream sauce. I immediately loved the light but distinct flavors.

Cooking salmon in a wine cream reduction not only elevates the dish with rich and complex flavors but also enhances the natural characteristics of the fish. Salmon is known for its buttery texture and mildly sweet taste, and when combined with a reduction of white wine and cream, these qualities are accentuated. The wine contributes acidity, which balances the cream's richness, resulting in a sauce that complements the salmon perfectly.

Experiment with wine

Additionally, this cooking method provides an opportunity to experiment with different types of wine, allowing home cooks to tailor the dish to their preferences. Whether opting for a crisp Sauvignon Blanc or a full-bodied Chardonnay (I prefer a dry wine here), the choice of wine can significantly influence the overall flavor profile. The gentle simmering process of the reduction melds these flavors together, creating a luxurious and comforting sauce.

Furthermore, preparing salmon in a wine cream reduction is relatively easy and quick, making it an excellent option for weeknight dinners or special occasions. It allows for a presentation that feels elegant without requiring hours of preparation.

I started changing the recipe, using different ingredients, spices, and techniques, and I ended up with the version I use today.

All the same mushrooms

I use Cremini mushrooms as a topping versus White Button mushrooms. Cremini or Baby Bella mushrooms offer a richer and more complex flavor that contrasts with the milder whither fish mousse. The fact is that a White Button mushroom is the same mushroom as the Cremini, or brown mushroom, as well as the Portabella. The difference is only their age. The brown Cremini and the large, brown Portabella are more mature versions of the very same mushroom.

MSG

I use MSG in the sauce to enhance the flavor and add umami taste. Before you scream now and point out the "China Restaurant Syndrome," please read this article about MSG and the evaluation by the FDA. If you still believe strongly in the old myth of MSG, you can certainly omit it.

My daughter Katharina loves this dish more than any other. Whenever she visits me and I ask her what to cook, she answers: Salmon with white fish! (She uses the shorter version of the recipe's name.) Therefore, using her name in the title, I honored her, reminding me of this recipe's greatest fan.

Salmon with Whitefish Mousse “Katharina”

Ingredients

• 4 Salmon filets, skinless (approx. 7 oz total)

• 5 oz Tilapia

• 1 Egg

• 1 1/2 cups Heavy Cream (separated into 1/4 cup  and 1 1/4 cup)

• 1 cup Dry White Wine (Sauvignon Blanc or preferrably Dry Riesling)

• 4 slices of Tomato

• 8 thin slices of Cucumber

• 8 thin slices of Cremini (Baby Bella) Mushrooms

• 2 Shallots

• 1 Bay Leave

• 1 tbsp Butter, room temperature

• 1 large Egg

• 1 dash Nutmeg

• Salt and Pepper to taste

• Optional: 1 tbsp Capers

• Optional: 1/2 tsp MSG

Garnish:

• Sliced lemon

• Dill sprigs

  
  

The Process

1. Tap the salmon dry with a paper towel.

2. Chop the tilapia into smaller pieces and add it with the 1/4 cup of heavy cream, salt, pepper, egg, and the dash of nutmeg to a food processor.

3. Process the ingredients in the food processor until you have a consistent mousse without any remaining fish pieces. If you like capers, fold them into the mousse.

4. Grease the bottom of a casserole or sauté pan with the butter.

5. Chop the shallots into small pieces and add to the pan. Distribute the pieces evenly on the button of the casserole or sauté pan.

6. Lay the salmon pieces on top of the shallots.

7. Spoon the tilapia mousse on top of the salmon filets and even it out.

8. Top each of the filets with one slice of tomato, two slices of cucumber and two slices of mushroom, overlapping the vegeatble slices.

9. Add the white wine and bay leave and warm it over medium heat until bubbles form. Depending on your stove you may have to increase the heat.

10. Once you see bubbles, lower the temperature and cover the casserole or sauté pan.

11. Let it simmer for 20 minutes.

12. Remove the fish filets carefully and place them on a plate. Cover with aluminum foil to keep it warm.

13. Add 1 1/4 cups heavy cream to the casserole and reduce it over medium to medium-high heat. Stir consistently. It should reduce until you have a creamy sauce.

14. Add salt and pepper to taste. You can add some MSG to give the sauce a more umami taste.

15. Place the fish filets on a plate and spoon the sauce over it. Garnish with some dill sprigs and a slice of lemon on the side.

16. You can serve the dish with jasmin rice or (my preferred) mashed potatoes and leaf spinach.

Guten Appetit!

Wine Pairing

Seaglass Sauvignon Blanc

Why:

A slightly dryer wine with aromas of lemon, lime, grapefruit, and fresh cut grass. A clean, crisp palate of gooseberry, tangerine and a touch of minerality delivers an acidity and a light tart finish which pairs well with the creaminess and sweetness of our sauce.

Music Pairing

Felix Mendelssohn - The Hebrides Overture

Listen to music

Why:

Inspired by his journey to Scotland, Felix Mendelssohn expressed the ocean travel and the coast's beauty in this music piece. The music comes in light waves, and brass instruments deliver higher pitches. This goes along with the crispiness we need for our dish and, of course, the connection to Scottish salmon.