Pork Cordon Bleu

Ham and Cheese stuffed Pork Schnitzel

When you say "Cordon Bleu," most people in America have a breaded piece of chicken with stuffing in mind. However, this is different from what Cordon Bleu originally was. The first version of Cordon Bleu was probably created in Brig, Switzerland, in the 1940s, with its first appearance in a cookbook in 1949. Swiss chefs used a veal "Schnitzel" and stuffed it with cheese.

Not a Chicken Dish!

Chicken Cordon Bleu seems to be a later American invention. Therefore, it is more prevalent in the United States. It probably derived from Chicken Kiev, a Ukranian dish with flattened chicken breast, wrapped around seasoned butter, which was popular in the United States in the 1960s. Chicken Cordon Bleu was first mentioned in the New York Times in 1967 as advertising for food on United Airlines Coach Class flights. (Source: Lynne Olver - "The food timeline")

Just like "Wienerschnitzel" (and no, I am not talking about the hot dog restaurant chain), the preferred choice of meat for this dish is veal. It became very popular throughout Europe; however, veal is a very expensive meat choice, so it called for a less costly alternative. Pork loin was used to make it available not only in fine restaurants but also in average households, which is today the most common version of a Cordon Bleu in Western Europe.

I find pork an even better choice. The flavors are coming together better, and it is juicy.

The meat has to be thin! If the loin is 1" or thicker, you want to "butterfly" it first (note 1). Once it is cut this way, flatten it with a meat tenderizer. Lay the meat between two sheets of plastic wrap and slightly (!) pound the meat flat. Use the flat side of the meat tenderizer, not the spiky tenderizer sides. You can use a rolling pin instead if you don't have a meat tenderizer with flat sides. Work from the center of the meat carefully toward the outside. Make sure you flatten the meat evenly. Do not pound too hard or too much. The meat can break, and you will end up with an ugly gap. Take your time! You want to reach a thickness of 1/4".

Most Cordon Bleus are stuffed with either Emmentaler or Gruyere cheese (since the Swiss invented it). You can use any cheese you like. I choose Gouda since it gives a rounder, richer flavor with black forest ham, which is smoked and therefore infuses more character to this dish.

I fry the Cordon Bleu in Ghee or butter and oil mixture. The butter will give it an excellent color and a richer flavor on the outside.

My recipe calls for German mustard. There is certainly a variety of German mustard products. I use the medium (mittelscharf). Do not use sweet Bavarian mustard or the famous "Löwensenf Extra," which is very spicy. You can always substitute with Dijon mustard. I do not recommend using yellow mustard as it will add a crisp sweeter flavor.

Use better Bread Crumbs

Bread crumbs are critical in the process! If you like a crisp breading and a nice golden brown color, choose better quality like Panko bread crumbs, or make your own. (see Side Info “A word about bread crumbs”)

Pork Cordon Bleu

Ingredients

4 pieces Pork Loin (at least 1” thick)
4 pieces Black Forest Ham
4 oz. Sliced Gouda Cheese (or cheese of your choice)
2 tbsp German Mustard (substitute with Dijon Mustard)
1 cup All Purpose Flour
1 cup Bread Crumbs (see Side Info “A word about bread crumbs”)
1 Egg
1 Tbsp Water
3 Tbsp Ghee, or
- Alternatively: 2 Tbsp Butter and 1 Tbsp Vegetable Oil
Salt and Pepper to taste
1 lemon, sliced

The Process

Cut the fat off the pork loins. This will make it easier to flatten it evenly.
Butterfly the pork. (note 1)
Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on a wooden board. The sheet should be much larger than the pork loin.
Put the butterflied, open pork loin on top of the plastic sheet and cover it with another sheet, same size.
Flatten the meat by pounding carefully with a meat tenderizer. Work from the center to the outsides until the meat is approx. 1/8” thick. You might have to remove the top sheet from time to time and straighten it out, so it still covers the meat.
Remove the top plastic sheet and leave the meat on the bottom sheet.
Coat entire top side of the meat with one tablespoon of mustard, salt and pepper.
Take a piece of ham and lay it on one half of the meat. You might want to cut a few pieces, so they fit in a way that it covers the entire half.
Slice gouda cheese (if you did not buy slices) and layer the same half where you have the ham.
Grabbing the plastic sheet and two ends of the meat on the non layered side, carefully fold this side over the ham and cheese. The meat should completely cover the ham and cheese. If there are some pieces of ham or cheese sticking out, just cut them off.
Repeat with the other pork loin pieces. Set aside.
Prepare three plates and add flour to the first. On the second plate, crack the egg and add the water. Using a fork, whisk the egg, some salt and pepper and water until it is mixed well and slightly foamy. Add bread crumbs to the third plate.
Unwrap one piece of meat with the ham and cheese inside and toss it from both sides in the flour. Once it is completely covered, shake off thick flour spots, so it is thinly covered in flour. Toss the floured meat in the egg and finally in the bread crumbs. Make sure it is covered well.
Lay breaded meat on a plate and repeat with other meat pieces. (Do not discard egg mixture - note 2)
Heat Ghee or oil and butter in a cast iron pan (or other pan) over medium high. Add the breaded meat. Depending on the size of your pan, you may not add all pieces at the same time, but need to fry them in batches. Do not overcrowd the pan.
Once one side is golden brown after approx. 5 minutes, turn the meat and brown the other side. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let the Cordon Bleu rest for 5 minutes.
Remove the fried Cordon Bleu from the pan and serve immediately with a slice of lemon. Sometimes, I roast the lemon a little bit together with the meat.

Serve your Pork Cordon Bleu with mashed potatoes green peas and a slice of lemon. I usually add a mustard cream sauce. This recipe will be posted soon. Stay tuned...

Notes:

Butterflying meat is taking a thicker piece of meat and cutting horizontally almost all the way through it, so you can unfold it and end up with a thinner cut. When you open it and lay it flat, it resembles a butterfly. You must use a sharp chef's knife and have a sturdy cutting board. A pork loin cut almost resembles a "D" with a flatter and rounder end. Lay one hand flat on top of the meat, but do not press too much. This is just to keep the meat in place. Start cutting on the rounder side toward the flat side, where the fold will be. Make sure you are cutting precisely in the middle of it. Both sides need to have the same thickness. Don't cut all the way through, but stop right before the end, so both sides will still be attached. Take your time!
What about the egg wash I reserved? Once you are almost finished frying the Cordon Bleu, add the egg wash to the pan and fry it like scrambled eggs. Serve it on the side of the Cordon Bleu. No need to throw good food away!

Wine Pairing

Pinot Gris - Joel Gott Pinot Gris from Oregon, or similar

Why:

Pinot Gris fruitiness from honeydew melon and lime aromas balances the saltiness and slight sourness of the dish. Bright acidity and citrus notes on the palate complement breaded food.

Music Pairing

Edith Piaf - Non, je ne regrette rien

Why:

This type of French chanson offers a continuous rhythm representing strength and confidence. Although the French word "chanson" only means "song", it is more than a simple piece of music. Edith Piaf sings about leaving emotional baggage - good, bad, and ugly - behind and celebrates the birth of a new love. Hopefully, you will find a new love for a dish different from what you have experienced.