Myths in the Kitchen: MSG

How misinformation and rumors kept MSG out of America’s dishes - until now.

Have you ever had an "MSG night" after dining in a Chinese restaurant? Well, I doubt it. Many people told me how MSG affected their health or well-being. I have heard stories about sleepless nights, increased heart rates, and other unpleasant side effects.

The truth is: MSG was probably not the cause of them, at least for most people. The symptoms often originate from consuming high-fat, spicy food in combination with alcohol. But why do so many believe that MSG is bad for your health? It is one of these modern myths, probably created in an accident.

Chinese Restaurant Syndrome

The reason behind its negative label can be traced back to 1968 when a researcher named Robert Ho Man Kwok published a letter to the editor of The New England Journal of Medicine describing what he called "Chinese restaurant syndrome." The letter told the story of Ho Man Kwok dining at Chinese restaurants in the United States, experiencing symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, and palpitations not long after the meal.

Though Ho Man Kwok never mentioned MSG in his letter or concluded that the restaurant food contained MSG, MSG became the scapegoat in the spotlight. From there, media outlets picked up the story, sharing sensationalized headlines about the dangers of MSG, which caused widespread fear and resulted in many people boycotting certain foods containing MSG.

FDA: Generally recognized as safe

However, subsequent studies have not found a definitive link between MSG and negative health effects. In fact, MSG is classified as "generally recognized as safe" by the FDA. So why did the myth persist?

Part of the answer lies in cultural and historical contexts. In the 1960s and 70s, there was a growing movement towards natural and organic foods, and MSG was seen as a symbol of artificial, processed cuisine. Additionally, there was a wave of xenophobia and anti-Asian sentiment in the United States at the time, and MSG was often scapegoated as a foreign and threatening ingredient.

Despite repeated attempts to dispel the myth of MSG's harmfulness, the ingredient continues to be stigmatized in some circles. It is a shame because MSG can add depth and complexity to dishes in a way few other ingredients can. However, with the rise of global cuisine and a greater understanding of the science behind umami, perhaps MSG will one day be given its proper due as a culinary superstar.

It started in 1907

The tale of MSG began in 1907 when a Japanese chemist named Kikunae Ikeda was enjoying a bowl of traditional soup. Even though the broth only contained a handful of simple ingredients, he was struck by its complex and satisfying umami flavor. Umami is one of the five basic tastes, alongside sweet, sour, salty, and bitter, and is often described as rich, savory, or meaty.

Glutamate is naturally present in many foods

Ikeda began to investigate the source of this unique taste and eventually discovered that it was due to the presence of an amino acid called glutamate. While glutamate is naturally present in many foods, including cheese, tomatoes, and fresh brewed soy sauce, it can only be tasted in its isolated form.

Ikeda was determined to find a way to extract and concentrate glutamate in order to create a powerful and versatile flavor enhancer. After years of experimentation, he succeeded in producing monosodium glutamate, a white, crystalline powder that could be added to virtually any recipe.

The original MSG product

Give it a try!

So, you should really try it. Enhance your dishes with this magical ingredient.

Add MSG to soups and stews

Pork Cordon Bleu

Ham and Cheese stuffed Pork Schnitzel

Go to the recipe

When you say "Cordon Bleu," most people in America have a breaded piece of chicken with stuffing in mind. However, this is different from what Cordon Bleu originally was. The first version of Cordon Bleu was probably created in Brig, Switzerland, in the 1940s, with its first appearance in a cookbook in 1949. Swiss chefs used a veal "Schnitzel" and stuffed it with cheese.

Not a Chicken Dish!

Chicken Cordon Bleu seems to be a later American invention. Therefore, it is more prevalent in the United States. It probably derived from Chicken Kiev, a Ukranian dish with flattened chicken breast, wrapped around seasoned butter, which was popular in the United States in the 1960s. Chicken Cordon Bleu was first mentioned in the New York Times in 1967 as advertising for food on United Airlines Coach Class flights. (Source: Lynne Olver - "The food timeline")

Just like "Wienerschnitzel" (and no, I am not talking about the hot dog restaurant chain), the preferred choice of meat for this dish is veal. It became very popular throughout Europe; however, veal is a very expensive meat choice, so it called for a less costly alternative. Pork loin was used to make it available not only in fine restaurants but also in average households, which is today the most common version of a Cordon Bleu in Western Europe.

I find pork an even better choice. The flavors are coming together better, and it is juicy.

The meat has to be thin! If the loin is 1" or thicker, you want to "butterfly" it first (note 1). Once it is cut this way, flatten it with a meat tenderizer. Lay the meat between two sheets of plastic wrap and slightly (!) pound the meat flat. Use the flat side of the meat tenderizer, not the spiky tenderizer sides. You can use a rolling pin instead if you don't have a meat tenderizer with flat sides. Work from the center of the meat carefully toward the outside. Make sure you flatten the meat evenly. Do not pound too hard or too much. The meat can break, and you will end up with an ugly gap. Take your time! You want to reach a thickness of 1/4".

Most Cordon Bleus are stuffed with either Emmentaler or Gruyere cheese (since the Swiss invented it). You can use any cheese you like. I choose Gouda since it gives a rounder, richer flavor with black forest ham, which is smoked and therefore infuses more character to this dish.

I fry the Cordon Bleu in Ghee or butter and oil mixture. The butter will give it an excellent color and a richer flavor on the outside.

My recipe calls for German mustard. There is certainly a variety of German mustard products. I use the medium (mittelscharf). Do not use sweet Bavarian mustard or the famous "Löwensenf Extra," which is very spicy. You can always substitute with Dijon mustard. I do not recommend using yellow mustard as it will add a crisp sweeter flavor.

Use better Bread Crumbs

Bread crumbs are critical in the process! If you like a crisp breading and a nice golden brown color, choose better quality like Panko bread crumbs, or make your own. (see Side Info “A word about bread crumbs”)

Pork Cordon Bleu

Ingredients

• 4 pieces Pork Loin (at least 1” thick)

• 4 pieces Black Forest Ham

• 4 oz. Sliced Gouda Cheese (or cheese of your choice)

• 2 tbsp German Mustard (substitute with Dijon Mustard)

• 1 cup All Purpose Flour

• 1 cup Bread Crumbs (see Side Info “A word about bread crumbs”)

• 1 Egg

• 1 Tbsp Water

• 3 Tbsp Ghee, or

  • Alternatively: 2 Tbsp Butter and 1 Tbsp Vegetable Oil

• Salt and Pepper to taste

• 1 lemon, sliced

Ingredients

The Process

1. Cut the fat off the pork loins. This will make it easier to flatten it evenly.

2. Butterfly the pork. (note 1)

3. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on a wooden board. The sheet should be much larger than the pork loin.

4. Put the butterflied, open pork loin on top of the plastic sheet and cover it with another sheet, same size.

5. Flatten the meat by pounding carefully with a meat tenderizer. Work from the center to the outsides until the meat is approx. 1/8” thick. You might have to remove the top sheet from time to time and straighten it out, so it still covers the meat.

6. Remove the top plastic sheet and leave the meat on the bottom sheet.

7. Coat entire top side of the meat with one tablespoon of mustard, salt and pepper.

8. Take a piece of ham and lay it on one half of the meat. You might want to cut a few pieces, so they fit in a way that it covers the entire half.

9. Slice gouda cheese (if you did not buy slices) and layer the same half where you have the ham.

10. Grabbing the plastic sheet and two ends of the meat on the non layered side, carefully fold this side over the ham and cheese. The meat should completely cover the ham and cheese. If there are some pieces of ham or cheese sticking out, just cut them off.

11. Repeat with the other pork loin pieces. Set aside.

12. Prepare three plates and add flour to the first. On the second plate, crack the egg and add the water. Using a fork, whisk the egg, some salt and pepper and water until it is mixed well and slightly foamy. Add bread crumbs to the third plate.

13. Unwrap one piece of meat with the ham and cheese inside and toss it from both sides in the flour. Once it is completely covered, shake off thick flour spots, so it is thinly covered in flour. Toss the floured meat in the egg and finally in the bread crumbs. Make sure it is covered well.

14. Lay breaded meat on a plate and repeat with other meat pieces. (Do not discard egg mixture - note 2)

15. Heat Ghee or oil and butter in a cast iron pan (or other pan) over medium high. Add the breaded meat. Depending on the size of your pan, you may not add all pieces at the same time, but need to fry them in batches. Do not overcrowd the pan.

16. Once one side is golden brown after approx. 5 minutes, turn the meat and brown the other side. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let the Cordon Bleu rest for 5 minutes.

17. Remove the fried Cordon Bleu from the pan and serve immediately with a slice of lemon. Sometimes, I roast the lemon a little bit together with the meat.

Serve your Pork Cordon Bleu with mashed potatoes green peas and a slice of lemon. I usually add a mustard cream sauce. This recipe will be posted soon. Stay tuned...

Notes:

1. Butterflying meat is taking a thicker piece of meat and cutting horizontally almost all the way through it, so you can unfold it and end up with a thinner cut. When you open it and lay it flat, it resembles a butterfly. You must use a sharp chef's knife and have a sturdy cutting board. A pork loin cut almost resembles a "D" with a flatter and rounder end. Lay one hand flat on top of the meat, but do not press too much. This is just to keep the meat in place. Start cutting on the rounder side toward the flat side, where the fold will be. Make sure you are cutting precisely in the middle of it. Both sides need to have the same thickness. Don't cut all the way through, but stop right before the end, so both sides will still be attached. Take your time!
   

2. What about the egg wash I reserved? Once you are almost finished frying the Cordon Bleu, add the egg wash to the pan and fry it like scrambled eggs. Serve it on the side of the Cordon Bleu. No need to throw good food away!

Wine Pairing

Pinot Gris - Joel Gott Pinot Gris from Oregon, or similar

Why:

Pinot Gris fruitiness from honeydew melon and lime aromas balances the saltiness and slight sourness of the dish. Bright acidity and citrus notes on the palate complement breaded food.

Music Pairing

Edith Piaf - Non, je ne regrette rien

Why:

This type of French chanson offers a continuous rhythm representing strength and confidence. Although the French word "chanson" only means "song", it is more than a simple piece of music. Edith Piaf sings about leaving emotional baggage - good, bad, and ugly - behind and celebrates the birth of a new love. Hopefully, you will find a new love for a dish different from what you have experienced.

Collard Greens

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Collard greens have been a staple of Southern cuisine for centuries. The dark green fan-like leaves, similar to kale and spinach, are part of the cabbage family and have been enjoyed in the South since before the Civil War. Collards are hearty vegetables that can be cooked in many different ways, from slow-cooked with bacon and ham hocks to quickly sautéed with olive oil and lemon juice.

The history of collard greens is deeply rooted in the South. They were first brought to America by African slaves who used them as a substitute for their native African greens. After slavery ended, they continued to be popular among African Americans as well as other Southerners. During the Great Depression, collard greens were an inexpensive way to feed large families on limited budgets.

Collard Greens now appear on menus all over the country

Today, collard greens are still an important part of Southern culture and cuisine. They are often served alongside traditional dishes such as fried chicken or pork chops and can also be used in soups, stews, salads, and side dishes. Collards are packed with vitamins A and C, calcium, iron, fiber, and protein, making them a healthy addition to any meal.

Collard Greens have become so popular that they now appear on menus all over the country. From upscale restaurants to home-style diners, you can find collards prepared in many different ways - from classic Southern recipes like slow-cooked bacon collards to more modern takes like spicy vegan collards with garlic and red pepper flakes. No matter how you prepare them, you can be sure that this timeless dish will always remain an important part of Southern culture and cuisine.

Using beef broth and caraway seeds

Collards are usually eaten together with other hearty food. As a classic side dish for fried chicken, BBQ ribs, ham, pork chops, turkey, and fish, sometimes it has its own side dishes such as mac and cheese, potato salad, or sweet potato casserole. I personally like collard greens as a main dish, with only a slice of bread on the side. I make it a meal. This requires "beefing" up the dish, and I mean this literally. Many times when I tasted collard greens, they were rather light in taste. Some red pepper flakes makes it a little spicy; however, it needs more body. Most cooks use vegetable or chicken broth, sometimes just water to cook the Collard Greens. I changed this and added beef broth instead. The addition of some caraway seeds gave it a somewhat earthy, robust flavor.

Going through the recipe, you might wonder about combining pork and beef broth. Didn't we all learn that you should not do that? Beef flavor overpowers pork. That is true! However, I use smoked pork here. While the strong flavor sustains, it still offers a softer kind of meat which is a better choice to accompany soft green-leaf vegetables.

If you do not eat pork, choose a smoked turkey leg instead. Omit the bacon and replace the bacon fat with duck fat or olive oil.

Don't miss the Potlikker!

You will remove the Collard Greens from the pot using a slotted spoon or tongs and leave most of the liquid behind. Please don't throw it away! This beef and greens broth still contains essential nutrients and has a fantastic flavor. It is called Potlikker. And no, it is not "pot liquor" or "pot licker." It has nothing to do with licking the pot, although the great taste of this recipe makes you want to do exactly that.

This robust and delicious broth makes a good soup base, adds body to sauces and mashed potatoes, or is excellent just sipping from a cup. You can freeze the broth if you do not use it right away.

Collard Greens

Ingredients

• 2 pounds Collard Greens (The weight includes the stems. 2 pounds is usually 2 bunches)

• 1 Yellow Onion, chopped

• 5 slices of Bacon

• 2 slices of Smoked Pork Chops or 1 piece of Smoked Pork Hock (Sizes will vary. Make sure you have approx. 2 lb. of meat.)

  • Alternatively: 1 Smoked Turkey Drum

• 4 cloves of Garlic, minced

• 4 cups of Beef Broth

• 1/4 cup Apple Cider Vinegar

• 2 tsp Red Pepper Flakes (Adjust according to your liking.)

• 1 tbsp Caraway Seeds

• Salt and Pepper to taste

Ingredients

The Process

1. Set the oven to 400 degF.

2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

3. Lay the bacon pieces on the parchment paper and put them into the oven until brown. (approx. 10-15 minutes) Check occaisonally and turn the bacon once it is brown on the top.

4. Remove bacon from the oven and set aside to cool down.

5. Pour the remaining bacon fat from the baking sheet into a heat-resistant cup. Set aside.

6. Wash the collard greens under running, cold water.

7. Remove the stems of the collard greens. Fold one leaf at the stem and cut it with a sharp knife along the stem. It is OK to leave the smaller stem parts on the top.

8. Cut the leaves in bite sizes. (note 1)

9. Crumble the cooled bacon into smaller pieces.

10. Pour bacon fat into a dutch oven over medium-high heat. You should have around 2 tbsp of fat. If you have less, add olive oil.

11. Add onions to the dutch oven and sautee until translucent, approx. 5 minutes.

12. Add garlic, red pepper flakes, caraway seeds, bacon pieces, and meat. Sautee for 30 seconds while stirring.

13. Add collard greens and let them "sweat" for approx. 30 seconds while stirring.

14. Add beef broth and apple cider vinegar. Bring to a boil.

15. Reduce heat to medium-low or low. It should only simmer. Cover the pot and let simmer for one hour. Stir occasionally. The time might vary. Just check the tenderness of the collard greens after one hour and add some time if necessary.

16. When the collard greens are soft enough, taste the broth and add salt and pepper. (note 2)

17. Use a slotted spoon or tongs to take collard greens out of the dutch oven. Serve in a bowl and add some of the meat to it. I like to eat it with a rustic piece of bread and some hard cheese.

Notes:

1. To cut the collard greens, stack the leaves. Cut the leaves lengthwise, turn them, and cut them across. The size depends on your liking. I usually cut them into 2-3 inch pieces. You can also tear the leaves into pieces, giving them a nicer appearance. However, it will take more time.

2. Here, we add the salt at the end of the cooking process, not the beginning. This is important because some smoked meats release a lot of salt while cooking.

Wine Pairing

New Kent Winery White Merlot, Virginia, USA

Why:

White Merlot offers a light sweetness that goes well with a slight bitterness of Collard Greens. Notes of cherry and honey complement the smoked pork in our dish. White Merlots are relatively new, first marketed in the 1990s to compete with White Zinfandels. I find the notes of White Merlot a better match, as it would be with a red Merlot.

Music Pairing

Pink Anderson - Greasy Greens and other songs from the album Medicine Show Man

and

Floyd Council - Runaway Man Blues

Why:

Pinkney "Pink" Anderson was born in South Carolina, the Collard Greens capital. The song Greasy Greens is about cravings for them and how they should be prepared. This type of blues represents the South and brings you right back to the roots of Collard Greens.

Floyd Council, born in North Carolina, was a Piedmont Blues practitioner, which is also an excellent match to this meal.

Interesting side information: Syd Barrett of the English rock band Pink Floyd created the band's name by combining the first names of Pink Anderson and Floyd Council.