Hungarian Goulash Soup (Gulyásleves)
- Schatzi
- Dec 6, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Dec 18, 2023
This very traditional dish is actually a “cowboy” soup.

Goulash soup is a dish with humble beginnings. Originating in Hungary during the 9th century, the soup was created by Hungarian herdsmen (cowboys) who needed an easy-to-make, filling meal while out tending to their animals. The dish became popular because it used affordable, readily available ingredients such as beef, potatoes, and paprika. Today, the dish has evolved and can be found in many variations that differ by region. For example, you can find goulash with pork, lamb, or even chicken in some parts of Eastern Europe.
Goulash means Herdsman or Cowboy
The origins of the name "goulash" are not entirely clear. Some say it comes from the Hungarian word "gulyás," meaning herdsman, and the soup "gulyásleves" since Hungarian herdsmen invented the dish. Others believe the name originates from the Turkish word "gülas," which means stew. Nonetheless, the dish's popularity spread across Europe, and it eventually became a staple dish in other countries such as Austria, Germany, and the Czech Republic.
Have a Goulash Party
Besides its robust and delicious flavor, goulash soup is a dish steeped in cultural tradition. The dish is often served in Hungary during celebrations such as weddings and holidays. In fact, "goulash parties" are a popular way to gather different generations of family and friends to indulge in a big pot of soup. The addition of paprika symbolizes the sun and warmth of community, while the tender meat and vegetables represent the earth's bounty.
As goulash soup spread in popularity across Europe, it became part of the culinary heritage of many countries. Each country has its unique twist on the classic recipe. For instance, in Germany and Austria, goulash is typically thicker and meatier and is served with spaetzle, a type of German noodle. Meanwhile, in the Czech Republic, it is typically made spicier by adding tomato paste. In Croatia, the dish often includes red wine or vinegar for more tanginess.
This soup is a true meal
I remember when I was young, my father adored Goulash Soup. Coming out of the Second World War, my father was starving and always looking for food. Later, when food was available, he always enjoyed Goulash Soup. This is like a meal, rich in meat, vegetables, and spices. He had pretty much everything he could not have before in just one bowl combined. I cooked it for him often, developing my own version of the soup over the years. I remember how happy he was when I served it. I hope you can enjoy it too!
Hungarian Goulash Soup (Gulyásleves)
Ingredients
2 lb. Beef (Chuck) cut into 1" (or so) cubes (note 1)
1 cup Jowl or Bacon (or both) cut into small cubes (note 2)
1 small can (6 oz) Tomato Paste
1 1/2 cup Red Wine (Cabernet Sauvignon)
2 medium Green Sweet Peppers
1 cup Celery Root cut into small cubes
3 medium Onion
2 medium Carrot
4 medium Mushrooms
3 medium Yukon Gold Potatoes
1 head Garlic (plenty)
16 cups Beef Stock
4 tbsp Hungarian (Szeged) Paprika (note 3)
1 tbsp Hot Paprika (optional)
Salt Pepper to taste
2 tbsp Caraway Seeds (not Cumin Seeds!)
1 tbsp Marjoram
2 Bay Leaves
Garnish
Sour Cream or Crème Fraîche
Chopped Parsley

The Process
Fry the jowl or bacon in a large pot until the fat renders.
When the pieces are brown and appear dry, remove them from the pot, ensuring all fat stays inside. You don't want the hard pieces in your soup.
Add the meat and fry it until it turns brown. This can take a while since the meat will let some water in the pot. Make sure you fry the meat in small batches, so there is not too much liquid in the pot. It does not have to be crisp but has to have color to develop the Maillard reaction.
Add onions and fry until translucent.
Add caraway seeds and heat for 1 minute.
Add tomato paste. Stir well and heat for 5 minutes to make it "sweat."
Add garlic and heat for 1 minute.
Add celery root, carrots, and peppers and stir well.
Pour red wine into the pot and cook for 3 minutes. We will not reduce the liquid since it is already pretty creamy.
Pour the beef stock into the pot and stir.
Add two of the three cut potatoes.
Bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 hours.
Let the soup cool down and place it in the refrigerator for a few hours. The fat will rise to the top and will solidify. This allows you to remove fat, if it is too much for you. (note 4)
Reheat the soup and let it cool down again. Repeat 1-2 times. (note 5)
Around 30 minutes before you serve the soup, add the third cut potato and let it boil with the soup. (note 6)
Serve the soup in a bowl and garnish it with a dollop of sour cream (or better Crème Fraîche) and some chopped parsley.
Enjoy!
Notes:
I prepare the chuck and cut most of the fat out. You could use a leaner cut such as round roast, but chuck offers better flavors.
Pork jowl has a lighter flavor and offers more fat than bacon when rendered.
Use only original Hungarian paprika, preferably from Szeged. It will make a big difference. This paprika is not difficult to get. Most good supermarkets offer it, or you can buy it online.
Do not throw the fat away. It is very tasty and can be used for other things. If you like butter on your bread, try the soup fat instead. It is actually healthier than butter. You can also use the fat to fry meats or eggs in it. It will give your food the extra flavor.
The process of reheating liberates some of the flavor molekules which are trapped inside of fat, starch and vegetables. Furthermore, Proteins break down and release amino acids, such as glutamate, which enhance savory or umami tastes. Every time you reheat the soup, it will taste better. This does not work with all foods, but it works great with Goulash Soup.
We will add the third potato later to have it not too mushy. The other potatoes will slightly dissolve in the soup.
Wine Pairing
Rioja Crianza such as Marques de Caceres or similar.
Why:
Rioja Crianza ages only one year in oak, which preserves some of the acidity and prevents the wine from being too complex. Rioja is fruity, earthy, and robust, capable of competing with the spiciness of a goulash soup. However, too much complexity can overpower the dish, which will not be a problem with Rioja Crianza.
Music Pairing
Gyors Csardas - Various Hungarian Folk Songs
Why:
Csardas is a Hungarian dance of alternating slow and fast sections. Music for this dance is also called Csardas. It is playful, powerful, and sometimes carries melancholy. This lively play of different scenarios matches our soup, full of different flavors that dance together playfully.
It would be too difficult to name only one piece, but here is a good example: Listen to music
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